zumo 660 screen

[tonywalker]

Hi,
i have a zumo 660 with a cracked screen (digitizer?) and was wondering if this is a DIY job and if anyone here has experience in doing it.
any comments advice will be appreciated.

cheers

[PhilHornby]

I've never had my hands on anything from the Zümo range, but I've performed this operation on lots of Nüvi models. The first one you tackle is definitely the hardest....

Have a trawl through the web for instructional videos, or photos of the innards. (My own photos of the insides of a Nüvi 310 can be found here, and might prepare you for the sorts of things you'll encounter.)

These are the sort of issues that come to mind:

• You'll need a case opening 'pry tool' - basically anything softer than the case of the Zümo, otherwise you'll mark it. Check for torx screws (possibly hidden under labels), before applying too much force.
  
• As the case opens, look very closely at the routing of the ribbon cables to the display. Very, very carefully, flick the tab on the board that locks the cable in place. Those tabs snap off all too easily
  
• Watch out for other wires running between the case halves (for things like microphones, switches, speakers etc). Sometimes switches have pieces of plastic attached, that are only held captive when the case is closed, so watch out for those falling off.
  
• Removing the LCD & digitizer from the front case half might require flexing the case to release it. Be very careful not to apply pressure to the LCD - they go 'pop' very easily.
  
• If the digitizer doesn't have its own ribbon cable to the board, you'll have to desolder the four connections to the LCD. Too much heat lifts the track...
  
• The digitizer is (probably) glued to a metal bezel, which clips over the front of the LCD. Before separating the two, there will (probably) be a cushioning layer of tape-like stuff to gently peel off (for re-use). Then you have to gently release the bezel, again without apply force to the LCD itself. (I've never bothered with glue on the replacement digitizer; there's usually enough 'sticky' left on the bezel).
  
• The digitizer is made of glass, so watch your figures when you remove the bezel from the old one.
  

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above

In short, there are lots of things that can go wrong ... but it is possible to fix it yourself.


⁞

[tonywalker]

[quote="PhilHornby"]I've never had my hands on anything from the Zümo range, but I've performed this operation on lots of Nüvi models. The first one you tackle is definitely the hardest....

Have a trawl through the web for instructional videos, or photos of the innards. (My own photos of the insides of a Nüvi 310 can be found here, and might prepare you for the sorts of things you'll encounter.)

These are the sort of issues that come to mind:

• You'll need a case opening 'pry tool' - basically anything softer than the case of the Zümo, otherwise you'll mark it. Check for torx screws (possibly hidden under labels), before applying too much force.
  
• As the case opens, look very closely at the routing of the ribbon cables to the display. Very, very carefully, flick the tab on the board that locks the cable in place. Those tabs snap off all too easily
  
• Watch out for other wires running between the case halves (for things like microphones, switches, speakers etc). Sometimes switches have pieces of plastic attached, that are only held captive when the case is closed, so watch out for those falling off.
  
• Removing the LCD & digitizer from the front case half might require flexing the case to release it. Be very careful not to apply pressure to the LCD - they go 'pop' very easily.
  
• If the digitizer doesn't have its own ribbon cable to the board, you'll have to desolder the four connections to the LCD. Too much heat lifts the track...
  
• The digitizer is (probably) glued to a metal bezel, which clips over the front of the LCD. Before separating the two, there will (probably) be a cushioning layer of tape-like stuff to gently peel off (for re-use). Then you have to gently release the bezel, again without apply force to the LCD itself. (I've never bothered with glue on the replacement digitizer; there's usually enough 'sticky' left on the bezel).
  
• The digitizer is made of glass, so watch your figures when you remove the bezel from the old one.
  

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above

In short, there are lots of things that can go wrong ... but it is possible to fix it yourself.


thank's for that.
i have had a good look around the web and been unable to turn anything up as yet on dismantling the zumo.
i will make further enquiries but think that i will in the end let Garmin take care of it.
if i had taken a little more care i wouldn't be in this position

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