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Bluetooth iO module
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mikealder
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All I recall doing was plugging in the ISO connectors as these carry the constant 12V and ignition switched 12V lines that are then also fed straight to the iO-Play module down the supplied harness.
I had the car in bits over the weekend and all this was taken out before re-installing it, the brown wires are not connected to anything, you can just about make these out in the following picture:



I would just try connecting up the main plugs then switch it on, you shouldn't need the mute wires as the device is connected between the stereo and speakers so it controls what sound is heard from where - Mike
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PaulB2005
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also had the 2 brown wires as described. Ignored them and all works fine.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your input guys. I will leave those wires alone then. Better still, I'll put some black insulating tape over the ends.

When you say "switch it on" Mike, do you mean the ignition? My radio will work after I've turned the engine off (if I switch it on with the button) but do I actually need the ignition on for power to go to the iOPlay unit itself?

Thanks.
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mikealder
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes turn the ignition to position one which should power the radio up and the iO-Play device, then start to pair your devices with the unit.
As a tip when you have paired the phone to the device turn the Bluetooth off on the phone before you pair the TomTom to it, you can only pair new devices when nothing else is connected, this has caught a few users out so far (me included, then again I never read the manuals) - Mike
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jpg1
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike, thanks for all your input.

I connected everything up yesterday and switched the ignition on (the radio can work without anyway) but thee was no sign of life from the iOPlay unit. The red LED on the amplifier unit did not come on and there were no lights on the console. My Nokia could not see it as a bluetooth device either :-(

I checked for a 12V supply using one of those pointed screw drivers with the glow fuse inside - the 12V terminal at the radio is live and so is at least one connection into each of the two orange iO boxes. So they're seeing the input voltage. But nothing happens when it's all connected up.

I am thinking of sending the iOPlay back to amazon as faulty. Does anyone have sufficient detailed knowledge about this unit to suggest what else I could check. I might just buy another from a different retailer and see how that one works...although I could end up with the same problem if it's something to do with the wiring loom...!!

On the radio side of the ISO connection loom (I needed a special one for the Vauxhall CD30 unit, to plug into the iOPlay cables and then into the radio) there are three unconnected wires - but these seem more like the cables you'd use when connecting a car kit for a mobile phone: Tel Mute, "+12V input" and "Cab Lighter". I'm not sure if I need to do anything with these?

Any help most appreciated, else I'll send it all back to Amazon. It's about 23 days after I received the item, so I don't want to wait much more than a few days before I need to send the item back just in case it is faulty. Presumably Amazon have a 30 day returns period after deliivery?

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having re-read your post with the photo above, it seems there are 2 sets of 12V input lines. I didn't check that both sets are working when the ignition is on with my glow tester, but presumably they should be anyway if everything is connected up.

The Tel Mute wire goes between the radio and the iOPlay, but I'm not sure where the 12V ignition wires might come to/from? The radio, or the cables going to it? Or perhaps I need to find another ignition-related 12V supply, like the heater/aircon unit? The 12V input to the radio said 12V memory, which suggests it is only the constant 12V line and not the ignition line. Perhaps my radio does not have a 12V ignition line in. After all, I can use it in the same way irrespective of whether the ignition is on or not.

Am I on the right track? Any ideas which colour on the iOPlay cabling might need the ignition 12V supply?

Thanks...
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mikealder
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This Page offers information on which of the ISO connectors pins perform which functions, you need to check that both 12V pins on plug A are live with the ignition switched on. Plug A is usually the connector with at least one pin not used (sometimes more than one pin is unused depending upon the car), Plug B which is for the speakers is allways fully wired.

The iO-Play needs both the 12V pins to work correctly - Mike
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jpg1
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mike

Thank you very much for the ISO connection information.

I will go and test for both the 12V signals being live with the ignition on. I have read elsewhere that the Vauxhall CD** units don't have an ignition-switched 12V signal coming in, so I think I'll have to tap off the heater/aircon supply (5A fused) as that is only on when the ignition is on.

Cheers,

J-P
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jpg1
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys,

I have successfully managed to install my iOPlay unit - thanks for your help!

I have a small problem though - the TT keeps disconnecting from the Hi-fi connection. I am connect the iOPlay unit to my TT Go 530 using the bluetooth search function in the speaker preferences and by activating the iOPlay by pressing the white back & forward buttons simultaneously until I hear a beep) it pairs perfectly. The sound quality is really good - especially using the iOPlay unit with my Nokia N82 for calls (independent of the TT).

The problems come when I switch off the TT and then on again for the next journey. The TT struggles to pair correctly again with the iOPLay unit, and keeps losing connection. When it does connect, the instructions seem to stutter out of the car speakers (much like the previous problem a few Navcore versions back on the TT units that is now solved). If I pair it all manually again, everything is fine. It's reconnecting correctly and holding that connection that the TT struggles with. Connecting the N82 and the iOPlay unit works perfectly every time when the TT is not in the car.

I am not using the latest Navcore (I daren't upgrade just yet) but the next version down (8.350) - perhaps that makes a difference?

Any help much appreciated. I don't really want to pair the TT and the iOPlay unit manually every time I get in the car!

Thanks,

J-P
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mikealder
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't need to pair up the TT device each time you get in the car, it should simply work with the iO kit mine does, whats the issue with running the latest Navcore on the TomTom as its no worse than the version you are trying to use - Mike
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PaulB2005
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find it doesn't pair until it issues the first command, which i noticed because without a route set it would announce a local GATSO at the last moment instead of further back up the road.

Now when i get in the car before i set off, if i have no route i press the bottom left of the TomTom screen to bring up the volume screen. The TomTom will then automatically pair and announce "You have reached your destination". All works from their OK.

Never had to press both white buttons together...
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jpg1
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try upgrading the Navcore, in case it has something to do with the connection.

I have a theory that there's a conflict between the bluetooth wireless data connection (for GPRS traffic) and the Hi-fi connection. The TT doesn't connect well to the iOPlay unit when I first switch the TT on, and every few minutes it disconnects and then connects again. Perhaps when the TT is getting GPRS traffic data it loses the iOPlay connection.

This may be incorrect, but it might explain what's happening to my TT. I think it must be the TT, because my hands free connection between my Nokia and my iOPlay works beautifully.

I'm going to try switching off the GPRS traffic later today and see if it keeps disconnecting.

If such a conflict exists, I'll let you know.

Cheers for your feedback.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update...having GPRS traffic data connection active doesn't make any difference to the Bluetooth Hi-fi performance. This was only tested with no route planned and me sat in the car just now without going anywhere.

So - when I first pair the TT 530 with the iOPlay the nav instructions and music come through the speakers really well. However, if I then switch off one or both of the devices it struggles to connect again when they're both switched on. It initially pairs and shows "Connected to hi-fi device" whilst the white forward & back lights flash, but a few seconds later these stop flashing and go dim again. I found that pressing the bottom-left corner ("no route planned") like PaulB2005 mentioned, means that the forward & back lights on the iOPlay unit start to flash again and it pairs with the TT, but when it announces "no route planned" the voice stutters, much like the old stutter that some of us got a few Navcore versions back.

The only way I can restore the voice back to normal is by pairing the iOPlay unit with the TT manually again. After that it's fine for even the longest of journeys - until I switch either one of them off!

Has anyone else had this stuttering? Any help appreciated...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just thought I'd give an update on how I'm getting on trying to connect the N82, Go 530 and the iOPlay...

I have figured out how to make them all work together correctly, but I have to force the A2DP connection to the TT Go 530 by getting into the car with my N82 switched off - otherwise when I get in the car and turn the ignition on, it will connect to the iOPlay with the HFP and A2DP modes straight away, before the TT has had a chance to occupy the A2DP role.

I have to do the following in order:

1. Enable bluetooth on the N82, then switch it off.
2. Go out to the car and get in, then switch on the TT Go 530.
3. Switch on the car ignition.
4. Manually pair the TT with the iOPlay's A2DP profile (Hi-fi connection via Bluetooth) - this is not automatic because the TT doesn't seem to constantly search for a bluetooth Hi-fi connection unless you tell it to.
5. When the TT has paired to the A2DP profile on the iOPlay and the white lights have stopped flashing (and stay on) I switch on my N82.
6. When the N82 has booted up (with bluetooth on) I manually pair it to the HFP mode of the iOPlay to get phone calls through the speakers.
7. When the bluetooth is all connected, the TT Traffic GPRS will connect vis bluetooth to my N82 and get me the traffic.
8. All this gives me GPRS traffic, phone calls through car speakers & mic via the iOPlay (HFP profile) and voice instructions/music via from the TT through the car speakers via the iOPlay (A2DP profile).

The problem I had before was that connecting the N82 with nothing already paired to the iOPlay forced it to pair with the N82 for both the HFP and the A2DP profiles - not what I wanted! But there is no way, that I know of, to disable the A2DP mode of the N82 bluetooth, whilst keeping the HFP mode active. Hence why I need to get the TT connected before I switch the phone on.

btw - I need to switch the N82 off because it won't connect to the TT for GPRS traffic unless it has been re-booted after the bluetooth has been turned on.

Hope this helps anyone else in the same scenario...
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Tuppe
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.

Is anyone using this with a Iphone 3GS?

Am wondering if it works OK with the inbuilt bluetooth A2DP as opposed to an adapter.

Thanks
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